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What Is a Good Debt-to-Income Ratio?

Your debt-to-income ratio is the number lenders weigh most for a mortgage: total monthly debt divided by gross income. Here's what counts, what's considered a good DTI, and how to lower yours before you apply.

By DayCents Editorial Team· Updated July 4, 2026· 2 min read

Key takeaways

  • DTI compares monthly debt payments to gross monthly income — lenders' key approval metric.
  • Front-end (housing) ceiling is ~28%; back-end (all debt) is ~36%, with 43% a common max.
  • Only recurring debt counts — not utilities, groceries, or subscriptions.
  • Pay off a monthly payment or raise documented income to lower it before applying.

Your debt-to-income ratio — DTI — is the single number lenders lean on hardest when deciding whether to approve a mortgage and how much to lend. It compares your monthly debt payments to your gross monthly income, and it's the clearest early signal of whether a loan is within reach.

The two ratios lenders calculate

Underwriters look at DTI two ways, and both have to pass:

  • Front-end ratio: your total housing payment (principal, interest, taxes, insurance) divided by gross monthly income. The common ceiling is 28%.
  • Back-end ratio: all your monthly debt — that housing payment plus car loans, student loans, and credit-card minimums — divided by gross income. The classic ceiling is 36%, though many loans allow more.

The back-end ratio is the one lenders weigh most, because it captures every obligation competing for your paycheck.

What counts, and what doesn't

DTI counts recurring debt payments, not everyday living costs. Car loans, student loans, personal loans, and minimum credit-card payments count. Utilities, groceries, phone bills, insurance premiums, and subscriptions do not — lenders assume those come out of whatever income is left. This is why paying off a car loan can lift your borrowing power more than almost anything else.

What's a good DTI?

  • 36% or below: comfortable — you'll qualify with most lenders and have breathing room.
  • 37–43%: workable — 43% is the usual ceiling for a Qualified Mortgage, but the margin is thin.
  • Above 43%: difficult — some programs (FHA) stretch into the mid-40s or higher with strong credit and reserves, but the risk rises with the ratio.

How to lower your DTI

Two levers move the ratio: less debt or more income. Paying down or eliminating a monthly payment (especially a car loan close to payoff) drops the numerator immediately. Raising documented income — a raise, a second job, or counting a side income the lender will accept — lifts the denominator. Avoid taking on new debt in the months before you apply.

Check your number

Use the debt-to-income calculator below to see both your front-end and back-end ratios, and how much monthly-debt room you have before you hit a target. Pair it with the affordability calculator to translate your DTI into an actual home price.

Frequently asked questions

What is a good debt-to-income ratio for a mortgage?

36% or below is comfortable and qualifies with most lenders. Up to 43% is often workable — that's the usual ceiling for a Qualified Mortgage — but the cushion is thin. Above 43% is difficult, though FHA and strong compensating factors (high credit, large reserves) can stretch it into the mid-40s.

Does DTI use gross or net income?

Gross income — your pay before taxes and deductions. That's the figure lenders underwrite against. Because your take-home pay is lower, a payment near the top of the DTI limit can feel tighter in practice than the ratio suggests.

What debts are included in DTI?

Recurring credit obligations: your housing payment, car loans, student loans, personal loans, and minimum credit-card payments. It excludes everyday living costs like utilities, groceries, phone plans, insurance, and subscriptions, which lenders assume come from your remaining income.

Sources

  1. Consumer Financial Protection Bureau — What is a debt-to-income ratio?

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Disclaimer: DayCents provides this calculator for educational purposes only. Results are estimates based on your inputs and the stated assumptions — they are not financial advice, a quote, or an offer of credit. Consult a qualified financial professional before making major money decisions.